Glacial Travel
&
Crevasse Rescue
Set in a spectacular environment that provides abundant learning opportunities, this comprehensive course is truly rewarding. It is designed for individuals aspiring to learn the fundamental skills of snow, ice, glacier, and rock climbing techniques, and includes the application of skills learned toward the ascent of major glaciated mountains.
The majority of the time you will spend in the North Cascades where active glaciers, volcanic peaks, and breathtaking views create the ideal learning environment. A summit attempt at the end of the course gives you the chance to put your newly developed skills to the test. Our final day is reserved as a backup summit day or as a chance to learn basic rock climbing techniques.
Our goal is to develop safe, self-reliant alpine climbers ready to climb locally or in the greater ranges of the world. This course is truly an excellent foundation for any climber seeking independence in the alpine arena.
No previous climbing experience necessary.
Included in Cost: All meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
Not Included in Cost: Airfare, transportation, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.
A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
Course Curriculum Includes:
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and navigation.
- Team and individual crevasse rescue techniques and scenarios.
- Low angle to steep snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and moving in
- Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
- Intro to ice climbing and crampon techniques.
- Team and individual self arrest techniques.
- Belaying, rappelling, and rope management.
- Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction.
- Basic rock-climbing techniques, commands, and equipment use.
- Navigation using maps, compasses, and altimeters.
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills.
- Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers.
- Proper clothing and equipment for survival in the glacial environment.
Course Itinerary:
Day 1: 6:30 a.m. orientation. After an initial meeting and equipment check, we drive from Seattle to the trailhead and begin our hike to base camp. This hike is very strenuous and can take from 4 - 6 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) You’ll hike through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and eventually snow covered areas en-route to our base camp. After establishing camp, the remainder of the day will focus on the skills necessary for the proper use of an ice axe, traveling in balance, self-belay, and self arrest. You also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, as well as belay techniques.
Day 2: After a hearty breakfast, we begin the day with an introduction to crampon use and climbing steeper snow and ice. We then focus on the skills required for safe and efficient glacier travel including roped travel and self-rescue (prussiking) techniques. This includes the means for each team member to correctly tie into the rope including the proper spacing of climbers based on the number of team members. After learning the proper techniques for traveling as a rope team, we then make a short glacial “tour,” enabling us to practice and comprehend the day’s lessons. Discussions late in the day will focus on navigation with the use of a map and compass.
Day 3: Our main focus for the day is crevasse rescue. Your group will get more practice placing effective snow anchors and bollards and then learn to equalize them to create “bomber” anchors. You will put them to use as you learn the fundamentals of crevasse rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. Your team will perform a number of team rescues and a multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude the day with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.
Day 4: Today your group will move to a high camp in preparation for your summit attempt. After establishing camp, you will further refine your steep snow and ice climbing with an emphasis on French, German and American hybrid styles of crampon technique. Later in the day, your guides will lead a discussion of avalanche terrain evaluation and avoidance. That evening, we will make final preparations for the next day’s summit attempt.
Day 5: After a pre-dawn wake-up and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today your group will apply the skills they have been practicing all week toward the ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of your group, it will take five to eight hours to reach the summit. After enjoying the views and a snack, and absorbing your accomplishments, students will navigate and lead their team back to high camp.
Day 6: Today is reserved as a backup summit day or a chance to refine the skills you have been taught throughout the course. Depending on the conditions we may give more time to learning advanced snow and ice skills or take the opportunity to go to Mt. Erie for an introduction to rock climbing techniques. Overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Mt. Erie provides an excellent chance to learn and practice rock climbing techniques including appropriate equipment selection, belaying, rappelling, and efficient movement over rock. At the end of the day, we will pack up our gear and head back to Seattle. Expect to be in Seattle between 6 and 8 PM on the last day.
Note on the Itinerary: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. Students will be advised of the location of their course within two weeks prior to the start date, based upon current snow, route, and weather conditions.
Qualifications: Previous mountaineering experience is not required. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot overemphasize the importance of physical conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning while enjoying the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 60 lbs. to base camp.
Feel free to contact us with any questions or comments.
We'd love to hear from you!
tony@nwwilderness.com